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GXØOWX R.S.G.B.

WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB

NEWSLETTER January 2008

Happy New Year to Club members and all readers

Last month’s meeting was the annual nosh which took place at the Valiant Soldier. As usual the food was very good, with plenty of it. Hardly anything left on the plates!. It was enjoyed by all who came.

Next month’s meeting (first Tuesday in February - ) will be the quiz at which attendees are asked to bring FIVE questions, each with three possible answers; only one of which is correct.

Kenn has sent Oli 2 items, one of possible use in the Newsletter and the second is info. on a video about making your own triode (Yes a thermionic vacuum tube). This month’s entire Newsletter is a copy of an article first published in Wireless World in January 1954 on

Home-made Transistors - enjoy!

IT is quite practicable to make point-contact transistors at home which compare quite well with those advertised by professional manufacturers. The electrical ratings and characteristics of the type 2N32 represent an attainable target for home-made units.The real difficulty is to make two units with reasonably similar characteristics. Consequently circuits must be tailored to suit the individual transistor if best results are to be obtained.

Even the best available point-contact units require careful handling, both electrically and mechanically; home-made transistors are no exception. If a bought unit dies, that's the end of it, but home-made units can be repaired by rotating the crystal to a new spot and re-forming. One unit has been resuscitated at least six times after circuit mishaps. It now has a current-gain "alpha" of 3 and a collector impedance of 50,000 ohms. Assuming an emitter impedance of 500 ohms, this represents an available power gain of 23.5 db. The alpha cut-off frequency is about 3 Mc/s.

The following materials are required to make one point-contact transistor: —

(a) 1 germanium diode (see below).

(b) 6" of 20 s.w.g. tinned copper wire.

(c) 1" of 36 s.w.g. phosphor-bronze wire.

(d) 1/4" of 3/8" diameter synthetic resin bonded paper (s.r.b.p.) rod.

(e) 1/16" of 1/8" diameter s.r.b.p. rod.

(f) 1/2" of 3/8" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. s.r.b.p. tube.

(g) 9" insulated tinsel copper flex (hearing-aid cord).

(h) 1/4" of 1 mm insulating sleeving.

(i) Bee's wax or impregnating wax.

(j) 9/64" x 1/16" x 0.00l" mica sheet.

(k) 8 B.A. brass grub screw tin long.

The tools required are those used generally for light instrument work. In addition, a pocket microscope of magnification 20 to 30 times is essential.

A simple ohmmeter in conjunction with a torch battery (4.5 volts) and a 4.7KR resistor is all the test equipment necessary. The ohmmeter should have an internal 9-volt battery and a half-scale reading of about 5,000 ohms. A Model 7 "Avometer" on the 1-megohm range is suitable. Assembly and forming jigs are described below.

The basis of the home-made transistor is a commercial high-reverse-voltage germanium diode. Diodes with a "turnover" voltage of 80 volts or more are usually necessary.

The basic physical phenomena which permits transistor action is "hole" storage. This is undesirable in diodes since it reduces the efficiency of rectification at high radio frequencies. Recently manufactured diodes appear to have been treated to minimize "hole" storage, consequently they make poor transistors. The best transistors are made from the glass-tube-enclosed type of diode made a year or two ago. The CG4-C and CG1-C with metal end caps and wire leads usually make good transistors. It is not necessary to use new diodes. Burnt out units are satisfactory as long as the crystal surface is unpitted and bright.

The first step is to clean the wax from the brass cap at the crystal (or red) end of the diode. The glass tube is gently broken and the cat's-whisker end of the diode discarded. Every precaution must be taken to avoid touching the face of the crystal since contamination from the fingers or tools may ruin it. The crystal is found soldered to a small brass mounting pin which is held in the brass cap by a set screw and a sealing compound. It is difficult to release the crystal by undoing the screw because the sealing compound holds it fast.

The crystal on its pin mount can be pushed out of the cap by means of a suitable jig and a vice. The jig consists of a metal plate at least 1/8" thick containing a hole (No. 2 drill) larger than the diameter of the glass tube but too small to pass the brass cap, and the shankof an old twist drill about 1/16" diameter. The cap containing the crystal is placed so that what remains of the glass tube is in the plate and the drill shank is then placed in the centre of the cap, behind the crystal. This assembly is squeezed in a vice until the crystal on its brass mount is ejected. The brass cap is discarded.

The crystal on its brass mount must be handled only by means of clean tweezers or small instrument pliers. Clean the remains of the sealing compound from the brass pin by scraping with a suitable tool. With a Morse No. 62 drill make a hole centrally in the base of the pin to a depth of 1/16". Cut a l" length of the 20 s.w.g. copper wire and quickly solder it into the hole. This is best done with the wire held vertically in the vice. Only " radio " 60/40 resin-cored solder of low melting point should be used, as acid fumes or excessive heat would spoil the crystal. Test the joint for strength. Slip a 1/8" length of the 1 mm sleeving up to the joint. Solder 3" of the tinsel flex to the end of the wire, using a heat shunt if necessary to protect the crystal. If the crystal should have been contaminated by dust or soldering smoke it may be possible to clean it on a silicone-impregnated lens tissue.

The collector and emitter contact points are made from flattened 36 s.w.g. phosphor-bronze wire. Cut the wire to two 3/8" lengths. Straighten if necessary. Flatten the wires by hammering between two hard smooth steel blocks. The flattened wires should be about 0.002in thick. The points are ground with a hand-held carborundum stone.

The stone should be fine, clean and preferably new. Grind one end of each wire to an equilateral V-shaped point. Only a few light strokes are required. Examine the noints under the microscope to see that they are clean and sharp. The radius at the tip should be less than 0.0005". and the angle of the V about 60 degrees. The points should be as alike as possible. Do not touch with the fingers.

The body of the unit consists of a 1/4" length of the 3/8" diameter s.r.b.p. rod. The central hole in the body is drilled No. 44 or 45 to give a sliding fit for the crystal mounting pin. A radial hole is drilled and tapped 8 B.A. to meet the central hole about 3/32"from the top face. Two holes symmetrical to the tapped hole are drilled No. 64, one on each side of, and parallel to, the central hole at a radius of 7/64". These holes must be a tight fit for the 20 s.w.g. copper wire. A 1/8" long brass grub screw is fitted to the tapped hole.

Cut the 20 s.w.g. copper wire to two 2" lengths and clench each piece about 1/2" from one end firmly in a pair of point-nosed pliers. The deformation of the wires ensures the necessary very tight fit in the body. Draw the wires into their holes in the body, with the short ends at the top, until they are immovable. The short ends are then bent through a right-angle in opposite directions tangentially and parallel to each other. The bends should be 1/8" from the top face of the body. The bent ends are then cut to be within the projected circumference of the body. With a fine file make flats on top of the bent wires. These flats should be in one plane and parallel to the body face. Tin the flats with a soldering iron and remove excess resin. Cut the ends of the wires projecting below the body to a length of 3/4". Solder to each a 3" length of the tinsel flex. A cap for the transistor is made from s.r.b.p. tube 3/8" inside diameter, 1/2" outside diameter and 1/2" long. A 1/16" slice of the 1/8" diameter rod glued into the top of the cap completes it. The cap should be a light push fit on to the body.

Each cat's-whisker must be bent to make an angle of just over 90 deg. The distance between the point and the bend should be 1/32" less than the distance between the flats on the support wires and the top of the body. The angle to which the cat's-whiskers are bent is important. It should be as close to 90 deg as possible without actually being 90 deg or less.

The cat's-whiskers are soldered in place on the support wires by means of a simple jig. This jig consists of a brass 8 B.A. screw 1.5" long, eased down if necessary to be a sliding fit in the central hole. The end of the screw is drilled centrally with a hole 1/64" diameter and 1/16" deep. The jig is placed in the central hole to project 1/32" above the top face of the body. Tighten the grub screw in the side of the body to hold the jig in place. The head of the jig screw projecting below the body can be held in a vice during the following soldering operation.

With tweezers lay one of the cat's-whiskers on a support wire so that the V-shaped point rests in the 1/64" hole in the jig. Balance the whisker if necessary by cutting the unpointed end with a pair of scissors. The jig must be set so that the unpointed part of the whisker is parallel to the top face of the body. Solder by placing the iron for a few seconds in contact with the support wire a little distance away from the whisker. The whisker will settle down a little during this operation. The joint must be a strong one since it will be stressed after assembly. There must be no solder on the parts of the whisker not in direct contact with the support wire. This is to maintain the necessary springiness of the whisker.

The second whisker is placed on the other support in line with the first whisker. The points should be in contact together in the 1/64" hole. Solder as for the first whisker. Remove the jig from the body and cut the spare ends of the whiskers close to the support wires. Trim with a fine file any projections outside the circumference of the body.

The points examined under the microscope should be within about 0.002in of each other at the tips. The bends should be slightly farther apart. Looked at sideways the two Vs should appear coincident. If the points themselves are in contact it does not matter at this stage.

Cut a rectangle of 0.001" mica about 3/64" x 1/16" and carefully place it with tweezers between the whiskers. Friction will hold it in place. The mica should be positioned about 0.0l" above the points.

The assembly of the crystal requires care. Insert the crystal on its mount into the central hole until the crystal comes into contact with the points. Increase the pressure until the top parts of the whiskers deflect about 0.01". Tighten the grub screw. The insulated sleeving should also be inside the central hole as far as it will go. This is to give mechanical stability.

Examine the point spacing under the microscope. Any spacing between 0.0005" and 0.005" will make a transistor, but 0.002" is about optimum. If the points are found to be touching each other, release and partially withdraw the crystal and move the mica spacer down nearer the points. Readjust the crystal-point pressure as before. If the points skate about on the surface of the crystal it means that the angle at which the points meet the surface is incorrect. The angle must .be as near normal as possible. Any latent instability of the points can be discovered by smartly tapping the body. The tapping procedure also helps to settle the points into the etched surface of the crystal. After tapping re-examine the point spacing. If satisfactory the cap should be fitted to protect the unit. Do not push the cap on too far or it will damage the points.

After forming and testing (described below) the unit is sealed by melting wax into the central hole and around the base of the cap. The wax must not penetrate as far as the crystal. The insulated sleeving helps to prevent this. The procedure is to place a small pellet of wax on the inverted unit and melt it quickly with a clean soldering iron. As soon as the wax melts, withdraw the iron.

All connections to the transistor must be made through the tinsel flex leads and not directly to the 20 s.w.g. wires. The reason is that the heat of soldering direct to the support wires would probably un-solder the internal joints. Also, if connection is made direct with crocodile clips, the shock of the spring-loaded clip slipping off is sufficient to break the cohesion developed at the points during forming.

The preliminary tests are to establish that a satisfactory double-diode exists. Check with the ohm-meter the resistance between the points, with the crystal lead (base connection) left floating. This is the unformed emitter-collector resistance and is usually about 1 megohm. A short-circuit requires readjustment of the points.

When the " Avometer " is used as an ohmmeter the normally positive (red) terminal has a negative potential. This will be described as the virtual negative terminal in the following text. With the virtual negative connected to the base, measure the resistance to each point. Each should be less than 1,000 ohms. Typical value is 500 ohms. Repeat with the virtual positive to the base. Each should be greater than 100,000 ohms. Typical value is 1 megohm. These readings should be fairly stable. If there is severe jitter the point pressure should be increased. Th final forming process usually removes the last trace of jitter.

The next test is for transistor action. Connect the ohmmeter between one point and the base, with the virtual negative to this point (collector). Between the other point (emitter) and base, connect the 4.5 volt battery in series with the 4,700-ohm resistor, making the emitter positive. The indicated collector-base resistance should fall about ten times, when the emitter bias is applied. Any observable drop in resistance is encouraging. If the drop is large, suspect an emitter-collector short-circuit. Repeat with the points interchanged. Choose the arrangement that gives the largest percentage drop in indicated resistance. Mark the collector wire with a spot of paint. If no transistor action can be detected, try a new spot on the crystal or change the crystal. Very few crystals tested by the author failed to give transistor action, and excellent results were obtained with about half of those tested.

The collector point must now be electrically formed to get the current gain (alpha) up to a useful value. The forming process also reduces the collector impedance. The increase in alpha, however, far outweighs the loss in collector impedance with successful forming. For example, forming can increase alpha from 0.1 to 2.5 while the collector impedance drops from 1 megohm to 25,000 ohms, giving an increase in power gain of nearly 16 times.

The essence of these theories can be summarized as follows:- The collector is formed by passing a short heavy pulse of current through it. The intense local heating changes the n type germanium to p type just under the point. In addition, thermal diffusion transfers some of the point material or surface impurities into this p type area and changes an even smaller area in the immediate vicinity of the point back to n type. The result is as if there were an n-p-n junction transistor with base input connection acting in cascade with the collector. The current gain is correspondingly high.

A theory that thermal traps are formed under the collector point also accounts for the very high alpha sometimes observed at low emitter currents. "Holes" caught in these traps form a positive space charge which attracts electrons from the collector. The average velocity of the electrons is much greater than that of the trapped "holes," consequently the current gain is that much greater. In practice the traps become saturated for emitter currents much above 50 pA. Consequently, the alpha falls to normal values of 2 or 3 at the more usual emitter current levels of 1 mA or so. In addition, this peak of alpha is very sensitive to temperature. This high alpha at low emitter current is not of much interest in transistors used as high-level amplifiers, but it is very important in the case of switching transistors. It greatly affects the triggering sensitivity in some switching circuits.

The purely thermal conversion to p type material under the point can probably be provided by any short pulse, unidirectional or oscillatory; but better results are obtained when the collector is pulsed negatively, with suitable precautions to prevent the pulse becoming oscillatory. There is considerable scope for experiment in methods of forming.

A typical method of forming, given by B. N. Slade, is to discharge a capacitor of from 0.001 to 0.1 mfd between the collector and base. The capacitor should have been previously charged to a voltage of from -75 to -300 volts. A charge/discharge switch is convenient. The emitter bias may be left connected, but the ohmmeter must be disconnected from the collector. Auxiliary contacts on the charge/discharge switch can do this.

Start pulsing at low voltage (80 volts) using the smallest capacitor. After each pulse measure the collector resistance (as before) with and without emitter bias. Increase the pulse in 20-volt steps and increase the capacitor at the end of each voltage cycle. Stop pulsing when the collector resistance, with emitter bias, has fallen to below 1,500 ohms, or when the collector resistance for zero bias has fallen below 10,000 ohms. A good transistor will be greater than 30,000 ohms for zero bias and less than 1,000 ohms with bias. When satisfactory results are obtained seal the unit with wax as described above.

More elaborate tests of the characteristics can be made point-by-point with suitable meters and current supplies.

The following tentative ratings are recommended for the home-made unit: —

Maximum collector voltage (d.c.) -30 volts.

Maximum collector voltage (peak) - 80 volts.

Maximum collector current (d.c.) -10mA.

Maximum collector dissipation .. 50 mW.

These figures can, of course, be modified as experience is gained.

The application of the transistor in circuits requires care if a reasonable life is to be obtained. Inductive and capacitive surges are particularly to be avoided. Switching off a transistor circuit containing a transformer, for example, can easily produce an inductive kick which will " over-form " the collector, with disastrous results. In such circuits it is advisable to replace the usual on-off switch by a potentiometer plus switch, so that the current is slowly reduced to a low value before switching off. In circuits where the transistor is used to discharge a capacitor it is advisable to include a 1,000-ohm resistor in the collector lead to limit the peak current to a safe value. Oscillatory circuits which are liable to "squegg " are dangerous. For this reason one should not lightly attempt to obtain Class C operation by means of a C.R autobias network in the emitter circuit.

Home-made transistors have been applied to several different circuits, such as a saw-tooth generator, a sine-wave audio oscillator, an e.h.t. generator, a bi-stable multivibrator, a medium-wave straight receiver and an audio amplifier.

The e.h.t. generator provides 860 volts d.c. for an input to the transistor oscillator of 2.2 mA at 16 volts. It forms part of a megohmmeter which measures up to 20,000 Mohm, and is contained in a box (complete with a hearing-aid type battery measuring 6in x 4in x 3in. The e.h.t. supply has also been used in conjunction with an image-convertor tube, and could be used to supply a small cathode-ray tube for oscillographic work.

The medium-wave receiver was, in fact, a crystal set (germanium diode) with one transistor stage of h.f. amplification, and used a loop aerial. A rough measurement of power gain gave a figure of 26 db. Part of this gain was due to positive feedback (reaction), but the circuit was quite as tame as any similar valve circuit. If one allows for the square law of the detector the effective gain was 52 db!

 

 

 

 

 WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB

NEWSLETTER DECEMBER 2007

Happy Christmas to all readers

Last month’s meeting is the annual Surplus Equipment Sale. This was not well attended; however, due to the generosity of those who were there (both donors and bidders), well over _ 40 was raised for Club funds. Two items were destined to be sold on eBay as these had values way in excess of the contents of the pockets of those present.

Next month’s meeting is the annual nosh. A chance for XYLs of silent keys to have a good natter. It will be held at the Valiant Soldier  Roadwater on:-

the 2nd Tuesday of January - 8th.Gather at 7.00pm with Eating and Drinking to start around 7.30pm

 

Watch how you Araldite

G3OUC, following recent problems with a home-made ATU, warns against the use of Araldite epoxy resin in circumstances where it is subject to high RF voltages. His ATU inductor has 12 tapping points set in etched fibreglass, with the taps comprising 6BA brass bolts. The row of tapping points was further secured by Araldite. This was hardened with a hot-air paint-stripper gun, the final (Hi-Z) tap terminal being about 0.5in from the earthed metal enclosure box. The ATU, fed with some 60W of RF from aTS-520, worked well on 7Mhz with a three-eighths-wave end-fed antenna for about three weeks. Then the SWR began to rise gradually and could not be corrected by changing the tapping point. G3OUC continued operating on 7MHz until there came a sudden loud crack and the SWR meter went haywire, reading equally on forward and reflected power. Checking the ATU showed that the last tapping point had short-circuited to ground as a result of the Araldite insulation breaking down, and forming a conductive path to the earthed metal enclosure.

G3OUC was much surprised at this failure of Araldite as a RF insulator. But subsequent checking with The Physical Laboratory Handbook (Pitmans, 1966) revealed that Araldite is unsuitable for use at high frequencies, having a dielectric loss factor of 270 (x1000) at 10MHz (compared with 0.3 for polystyrene and 0.2 for mica). The Hand-book also showed that other well-known substances and plastics are likewise unsatisfactory above 10MHz with PVC, cellulose and ebonite specifically noted. However, I seem to recall that a reader once pointed out that some PVC pipes are, in fact, much better RF insulators than others, and can be used at HF as large coil formers etc. Any plastic can be checked using the 'microwave oven test', in which a small piece is cooked briefly (remember always to place also a bowl of water in the oven). RF-resistant plastic will remain hard and cool. Poor RF performance will be indicated by the plastic heating and softening. RadComMay2001

WHITE LEDS

HOW DO WHITE LEDs work? I thought you could only get one narrow band of wavelengths from an LED.

Conventional LEDs produce light that consists of a single clearly defined peak or dominant optical wavelength, while true white light is a mixture of all visible wavelengths. The 'white' LED is actually a blue LED exciting a white phosphor. According to the Agilent Technologies (formerly Hewlett-Packard) web site, the white LED typically uses an InGaN (indium gallium nitride) LED chip coated with a YAG (yttrium aluminum garnet) phosphor to provide a high-quality white light. One way of expressing the quality of a white light is by 'colour temperature' - essentially equivalent to the physical temperature of something that is glowing white-hot. Lower colour temperatures such as 1500K to 2000K (subtract 273 to convert into ° C) range from reddish to yellowish in appearance, eg candlelight and conventional incandescent lamps. The Agilent/HP white LEDs have a colour temperature of about 6500K, which is generally regarded as a good 'pure white'. In addition, the quality of white light is measured using the Colour Rendering Index (CRI), which is an index of the spectral distribution at a given colour temperature. The appearance of white light can be created not only as a continuous spectrum but also by combining narrow wavelength bands of red, green and blue, as in a TV or computer monitor. Any colour can be created accurately in this way, but if you use this synthesised white light as a source to illuminate other objects (which of course you don't in the case of a CRT screen), the colours of some objects will appear dull because the necessary wavelengths aren't actually present. The CRI measures this aspect of white light quality, and the white LEDs score around 75 out of 100, which ranks them as a good illumination source. The white phosphor LED is not to be confused with the tri-colour red-green-blue device which is actually three chips in the same package (with four connecting leads). Theoretically these RGB LEDs can synthesise any colour including white, in the same way as a colour CRT or LCD; but even at best the CRT is poor. In practice there is strong colouration at off-axis viewing angles, because the LED chips are not in exactly the same place and the colours do not mix correctly. The main use for RGB LEDs is as indicators that change between a few simple colours, or for very large flat-panel colour displays. Luminous intensities for white phosphor LEDs are comparable with conventional 'high brightness' or 'ultra bright' LEDs. In other words they are not bright enough for use in a serious torch - someone aptly said that a white LED 'torch' on a key ring will help you find the lock, but it won't find the door itself. (This was published Oct 2000. Things have changed. Torches with white LED’s are quite adequate/very good) Similarly, white LEDs are not really suitable for large-area dial illumination. However, they should make a good and permanent replacement for those miniature dial bulbs that keep on buming out. Yellow LEDs have been recommended for greater reliability, as also have under-run filament bulbs rated for a higher voltage, but they both have an unpleasantly low colour temperature. Changing to white LEDs should cure that problem too. The prices for white LEDs are still a little above those for blue, and substantially dearer than the very cheap red LEDs, but most component distributors now have them.

There was a small item in this month’s (Dec) RadComs which your ed has followed via Google (and where else?):-

These babies can retain "up to 85% of its charge even after one year of storage" - very impressive! We have requested a review sample. Updates soon.

Powerex IMEDION Batteries - "Ready When You Are"

IMEDION a new generation in batteries. Unlike traditional NiMH batteries, IMEDION can be stored for an extended period of time without substantial loss of power and are ready to use out-of-package. As the name suggests, the IMEDION batteries will be "ready when you are!"

A common problem that plagues rechargeable batteries are, they need to be recharged about once every one to three month even if they are not used. Maha tackled this issue by developing advanced electrode materials to reduce the rate of power loss during storage. As a result, the IMEDION batteries retain up to 85% of its charge even after one year of storage (at a room temperature of 20 deg C).

The IMEDION batteries differ from the competition in that they boast a longer lifetime as well as increased power retention under warmer environments. The IMEDION batteries can be recharged for hundreds of times and perform extraordinarily well at elevated temperatures. In addition, the IMEDIONS feature a low-impedance design and can deliver a high burst of current.

The IMEDION batteries are fully compatible with all Powerex chargers and are available in 2100mAh capacity for AA size and 800mAh for AAA. The selling prices _ 12.95 for a 4 AA pack and _ 11.95 for a 4 AAA pack, respectively.

Founded in 1993, Maha Energy Corporation designs, manufactures and markets batteries and chargers under one roof. Armed with a robust core technology portfolio and a precision manufacturing operation, Maha seeks to provide consumers, professional and companies with the state-of-the-art products. Nevada are UK distributors for Maha and the Powerex range of batteries

EDITORS NOTE: High res pics available. Powerex Batteries are distributed in the UK by Nevada. On their site, these are listed at Pack of 4 _ 12.95 excluding p.p.

New film features amateur radio

It is not often that a major film takes amateur radio as its central theme. Making Waves is a new romantic comedy about a group of male and female amateurs who, assuming they will never meet, exaggerate their identities over the air. Things get complex when two fall in love with these alter-egos. For dramatic effect, the film includes occasional bad language and unlicensed transmissions, but its central theme of embellished identities enmeshed in a love story is rather fun. If you can forgive its use of swearing on the air and the odd technical inaccuracy, then it's worth taking a look.

And finally:- (Your ed. could not resist putting this one in)

Amateur wins tower libel case

Rick Brand, GØSJR, has been awarded substantial damages against his next door neighbours following defamatory statements they made in connection with his planning application for an amateur antenna. The neighbours wrote a letter of objection to South Beds District Council and copied it to ten other households. The letter contained statements which were "personal and designed deliberately to damage Mr Brand in the eyes of others", according to Recorder Ashworth QC at Coventry County Court. The Judge awarded Mr Brand a substantial sum in damages and his full legal fees. . Speaking after the hearing, Mr Brand, a Parish Councillor, said "It has never been about money and I will be donating some of it to charity. I would like to thank the RSGB for their help with my planning application, which was successful."

 

 

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER NOVEMBER 2007

Last month’s meeting was the annual Construction Contest. the demonstration of which might make your hairs stand on end (or rather wilt!).

Next month’s meeting is the annual Surplus Equipment Sale. This should be a good session as Oli has kept back various donations from members. It is also rumoured that Ian Aldridge might arrive with more items from his garage where the contents increase miraculously by themselves.

ADVERTS:-

1) Free of charge.

I have a Transformer, Large smoothing capacitor and heat sink from a Ten-Tec 20 Amp PSU - If anyone at the club is interested its FREE to pick up from Mac/G4OEC in Holford 01278 741527 or e-mail e.mcpheat@virgin.net

2) _ 15 Liner 2 2 metre S.S.B. rig. Contact Oli oli.g3nfy@virgin.net

RAYNET operate emergency plan

South Sussex RAYNET group were present to help when a plane crashed at the Shoreham Airshow. Each year an emergency plan is rehearsed and refined, in the hope that it will never be needed. However on the weekend 15 and 16 of September that practice paid off. On the Saturday a Hurricane nose dived into the ground, killing its pilot instantly. The incident happened off-field, and no one else was involved.

GM3ZYE, and his son Richard were controlling the routine channel and looking out over the field at the time of the incident. Their shout of 'aircraft down' brought everyone in control to high alert. The emergency channel sprang into use. The pre-prepared messages and procedure for Incident Off Field was broadcast, and acknowledgments sought from all on that net. This resulted in all access and departure gates being closed, all senior safety and administrative personnel being briefed, the PA Caravan being informed, and members of the public kept aware of the situation. Shortly after the accident, Spitfires flew a 'man missing' flypast in tribute to the downed pilot.

HOW MANY FARADS?

It doesn't seem that long ago that a 100,000- microfarad capacitor was considered a huge value. The idea of a one Farad capacitor was practically unthinkable, but the 1mfd capacitor duly arrived.

Inevitably it was a low voltage device, the typical use being to iron-out fluctuations in power supply voltage and hold equipment up for a short while when power failed. Maxwell Technologies have now introduced a range of "ultracapacitors" with values up to staggering 3 kilofarads (3000 Farads, or 3 billion microfarads). The typically use for one of these capacitors would be to connect it across the output of a power supply, to deliver a pulse of energy that is not efficiently provided by a battery or power supply alone. Still low voltage units, they can only withstand 2.7 volts, but for higher voltage applications the company also provide modules containing several ultracapacitors in series.

 

It seems Toshiba might be at the gluepot, sticking a standard DVD back-to-back with an HD DVD so that standard content can be included for ordinary DVD players.

UNIVERSAL FLASH STORAGE. Digital camera and cameraphone users will be all too familiar with the variety of non- compatible memory chips and sticks there are. Although adapters are available to convert some types to others, the current situation is that there are numerous non- compatible memory types out there. It's easy to see how such a situation arose, with rival manufacturers each fighting to have their system adopted, but in most instances when rival formats slug it out one ends up being victorious. Although one or two types have fallen by the wayside this hasn't generally happened with flash memory devices, but hope is on the horizon because there is now a proposed specification for Universal Flash Storage (UFS). Currently it is being backed by Nokia, Samsung, Sony Ericsson, Micron Technology, Spansion, MTMicroelectronics and Texas Instruments. UFS devices are expected to require little power and operate at high speed. The drawback is that even the standard is not expected to be finalised until 2009, so UFS chips won't be appearing any time soon. I wonder if they will be compatible with present day equipment, via adapters.

PEE POWER. Japanese company Aqua Power Systems has released onto the market (in Japan, at least) a new generation of 'Non-Pollution Power' AA and AAA batteries that can be recharged with water (or bodily fluids!) via a pipette. The capacity of their AA cells is approximately 500mAh, making them broadly equivalen to zinc-carbon cells (alkaline cells can be up to 3000mAh). These so-called NoPoPo 'aqua batteries' can hold their charge for up to 10 years, but can only be re-charged 3-5 times before being disposed of. They could represent the beginning of a whole new generation of batteries that can be re-charged anywhere without a power source.

[The following is one of the best descriptions of how a V.S.W.R. indicator works - and I have 5 articles to choose from!]

DIRECTIONAL POWER METERS.

The HF directional power meter is based on a Bruene [1] type of directional coupler. The Bruene circuit uses a transformer to sample RF current on a transmission line and a voltage divider to sample the voltage across the line. Figure 1 shows a simplified schematic of a Bruene coupler. The primary of the current transformer (T) usually consists of a single wire through the centre of a ferrite or powdered iron toroid core. RF current in the secondary winding develops a voltage across R3. This voltage at point B is proportional to the current on the line. The voltage divider resistors Rl and R2 produce a voltage at point A which is proportional to the voltage across the line. When a transmission line is terminated by a resistance which is exactly equal to the line characteristic impedance, the SWR on the line is 1:1 and voltage on the line is exactly in phase with line current. The values of Rl and R2 are chosen so that for a given value of line impedance (usually 50Ω), the voltage at A is equal to and in phase with the voltage at point B. This means that there will be no voltage across AB. This circuit is essentially the same as in the Wheatstone bridge.

If the line is not properly terminated, reflected waves on the line will lead to out-of-phase voltage and current on the line which will unbalance the bridge and cause a voltage difference across AB. A sensitive detector at AB can be used to measure reflected power on the line. If the input and output connections are reversed, the bridge will indicate forward instead of reflected power. Swapping the input/output connections is a very inconvenient way of switching between forward and reflected power-it is much easier to reverse the phase of the current sample by using a double-pole switch. If the secondary winding of the current transformer is centre tapped, a single pole switch can be used instead. If the line is not properly terminated, reflected waves on the line will lead to out-of-phase voltage and current on the line which will unbalance the bridge and cause a voltage difference across AB.

 

The Space Pencil

Originally American astronauts, like the Soviets, wrote with pencils, according to NASA historians. Indeed, in 1965 NASA ordered 34 mechanical pencils from Tycam Engineering Manufacturing in Houston at $128.89 apiece: $4,382.50 in total. When these sums became public and caused an outcry, NASA scrambled to find a cheaper alternative. Pencils may not have been the best choice anyway. The tips could flake or break off, drifting in microgravity where they might harm an astronaut or equipment. And pencils are flammable—a characteristic NASA wanted to avoid in onboard objects after the Apollo 1 fire.

The Space-Age Ballpoint. Meanwhile the Fisher Pen Company had invested a reported $1 million (none of it from NASA) to create what is now commonly known as the space pen. The device, patented in 1965, could write upside down, in frigid or roasting conditions (down to -50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to 400 degrees F), and even underwater or submersed in other liquids. If too hot, though, the ink turned green instead of its normal blue.

Fisher offered the implement to NASA. Because of the earlier mechanical pencil fiasco, the agency hesitated. But after testing the tool—named the AG-7 "Anti-Gravity" Space Pen—the U.S. decided in 1967 to use it on future spaceflights. Fisher's pen makes up for a lack of gravity by storing ink in a cartridge pressurized with nitrogen at 35 pounds per square inch—more than twice as much force as sea-level atmospheric pressure on Earth. This pressure pushes the ink toward the tungsten carbide ball at the pen's tip. The ink, too, differs from that of other pens. It stays a gel-like solid until the movement of the ballpoint turns it into a fluid. The pressurized nitrogen also prevents air from mixing with the ink, so it cannot evaporate or oxidise. (Summarised from Scietific American Aug 2007)

The very successful 3B7C expedition

. (I hope that some of you made the effort to contact them). GM3OXX, using just 1 watt, worked them on 5 of the bands that they were using. Great encouragement for QRP & Novices.

For those of you with little space to put up long wires, doublets or beams:-

Also from the 3B7C expedition:-

They had the opportunity of directly comparing verticals with Yagis also mounted close to the ocean. Numerous comparisons carried out by 3B7C team members came to a number of conclusions with which everyone agreed. Firstly, in terms of both transmitted and received signal strengths, there was very little or nothing to choose between even a single vertical and a 3- or 4-element monoband Yagi in its preferred direction. On 30m, the single quarter-wave vertical often outperformed the full-size 2-elementYagi (which admittedly was mounted less than a half-wave above ground). Secondly, being omnidirectional, the verticals obviously picked up stations from all directions, whereas if the Yagi was beaming to Japan very few or no Europeans would call, and vice versa. The omnidirectional radiation pattern of the vertical could be seen as both an advantage and a disadvantage: it did allow 3B7C to be heard over a wider geographical area than was the case with the Yagi, but it also meant that the 3B7C operator had to contend with a higher level of QRM as stations called from all points of the compass! The background noise level was also noticeably higher with the vertical antennas. Yagis are therefore preferable to verticals in order to keep up the rate (number of QSOs per minute or hour) by focussing the pile-up in one particular area only and keeping band noise to a minimum.

[A couple of years ago RadComms interviewed the best British operators after a big Contest. Similar comments were received regarding the Vertical; that it was an very good 2nd aerial and sometimes out-performed the main station’s antenna]

 

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER OCTOBER 2007

Last month’s meeting was a talk by young Steven on e-bay. It was a very well prepared presentation with plenty of questions and answers. It certainly removed the mystique of this form of Buying and Selling on Internet. It was a pity that not more members attended; they missed a most excellent evening.

Next month’s meeting is the annual Construction Contest. It is hoped that there will be a few more entries than usual! I have told that Oli is bringing along an item the demonstration of which might make your hairs stand on end (or rather wilt!).

At this meeting we will also discuss the venue for the Club’s annual nosh. It may well be the Valiant Soldier; if anyone who is unable to attend the next meeting has any comments on this choice would they please let Bob know.

For those who support our national society, the R.S.G.B., there is a change this month. (Not entirely due to the postal strike; the RadComms normally arrives in time for a quick scan for items of interest.But not this time) This time I have a couple of items from my archives:-

 

SIMPLE TESTER FOR F.E.Ts

Zero-bias drain current,

gate cut-off voltage and

gate leakage current in junction f.e.ts can be measured with a high-impedance voltmeter (20,000 Ω/Vor better) using the circuits shown in figures (a), (b) and (c) respectively.

Using an external voltmeter, a simple tester can be built around three push-button switches as shown (right). With the source resistor value of lKΩ,. IDDS is read in mA on the voltage scales of the meter.

Two small 9-V batteries give sufficient voltage to test most f.e.ts. The f.e.t. is protected by the protection circuit (2N1711) which works on the loadline principle, and limits the power to the test circuit to about 200mW.

The circuit has an additional refinement:- By depressing the Vp button and the IDDS button simultaneously, the circuit shown in (d) is made. The meter reading now gives both drain current in mA and gate source voltage in volts, thus giving a third point on the IDVGS characteristic. The complete tester can be built in a box measuring 10 x 7 x 5cm.

Jostein Skjelstad,Alesund,Norway. (Published as a letter in Wireless World, Sept 1972)

(Relevant diagrams appear on separate page)

 

 

Temperature-Voltage converter for Digital Multimeter

The thermometer adapter described below is inexpensive and simple to build. The converter is sufficiently accurate and reliable for most applications.

(Relevant diagrams appear on separate page)

Electronic engineers and designers have a special interest in the operating temperature of components/sub-circuits and even complete electronic and electrical apparatus. Stand-alone temperature meters as well as add-on units for use with DMMs (digital multimeters) are commercially available for this purpose. Most of these units offer a large temperature range of 200° C or more, and are fairly expensive. With occasional use in mind, however, the investment in a such a costly electronic thermometer is hard to recover. In most cases, a temperature range of -30° C to +120° C will be perfectly adequate. Moreover, that is easily achieved using common-or-garden components

MEASURING BRIDGE BASED ON P-N JUNCTION.

As you can easily see from the circuit diagram shown in Figure 1, the essential part of the T/V converter is a resistor bridge. Resistor R7 provides a constant current through the sensor, which is either formed by a transistor p-n junction or a silicon diode. An adjustable voltage divider, R1-P2-R2, is responsible for the constant reference voltage at junction B. The voltage between junctions A and B, also called the measuring gradient, is proportional to temperature change. Provided it is properly scaled to give a meaningful readout, the measured voltage is easily indicated by a high-impedance voltmeter. For this purpose, the circuit has a second preset potentiometer, PI, which is incorporated in the measuring bridge. The adjustment of PI will be discussed further on in this article. To prevent the sensor from heating up as a result of its internal current flow, the bridge section is operated at a low voltage and current level. Adjustable voltage regulator IC1, an LM317, provides a bridge supply voltage of only 3V. To ensure that this value remains stable, close-tolerance(1) resistors are used in positions R5 and R6. Because the current consumption is below 2.5 mA, and the battery is allowed to go as 'flat' as 5 V, the 9-V PP3 battery will last a number of years in this circuit.

A HOME-MADE SENSOR

The sensor may be a silicon diode (for example the ubiquitous 1N4148) or a silicon transistor. The ultimate part for this application is a miniature transistor type BC146 (from Philips or Temic/Telefunken) or the BC121, BC122 or BC123 from Siemens. Unfortunately, these devices are no longer manufactured, although with some luck they may still be found in the electronic surplus trade. The good news is that modern transistors like the BSX20 (having a metal case for good thermal contact), BC546B (plastic case) or the SMA-style BC848B (more difficult to use) may also be employed here. The thermal capacity of the transistor case determines the converter's reaction speed to temperature changes. A small metal case ensures fast measurements, while large plastic cases exhibit a sluggish response to temperature variations. Whichever you use, the sensor is connected to the converter by means of a sufficiently long, screened, cable. The wire connections to the emitter and base terminals of the transistor are properly isolated, while the collector remains open. The actual construction of the temperature probe depends on your application and requirements. For example, the transistor may be fitted in a pen holder whose tip is drilled to size, allowing the transistor body to be secured with two-component glue. A 3.5-mm jack plug may be fitted at the free wire end.

CONSTRUCTION AND CALIBRATION

All resistors should be metal film types which guarantee long-term stability of the circuit. Cermet multiturn presets are used for the same reason.

To calibrate the circuit you need a small amount of distilled water which is put in a freezer to make ice cubes. Put the ice cubes into a glass, and add water until they just start to float. Stir frequently, and allow the cubes to thaw about half-way. The temperature of the water/ice mixture is then very close to 0° C. Put the (electrically isolated) temperature sensor in the water/ice mixture. Set the DMM to the 200-mV range. Next, adjust P2 until the meter reads 00.0. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times, not forgetting to gently stir the water/ice mixture between measurements. Preset PI has virtually no effect on this calibration, and should be left at a mid-travel setting.

Next, heat the water to the boiling temperature, and immerse the probe again. Wait until the readout stable, then adjust PI for a meter reading of 100 (mV).

To enable the circuit to be accurately adjusted, the cermet presets have a relatively small range. If a particular range is not large enough, it is perfectly possible to change of one the fixed resistors in the bridge.

The boiling temperature of water depends on the relative air pressure. Fortunately, unless you are at the top of a really high mountain, or smack in the eye of a hurricane, the deviation caused by low or high air pressure is insignificant with respect to the normal measurement error of _ 1.5° C.

(Elektor Electronics 6/97 p 66-67)

 

Temperature – Voltage Converter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

f.e.t. tester

 

 

 

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER SEPTEMBER 2007

Last month’s meeting was a talk by Oli on the (lack of ) progress on his Slow Scan Television project. He had completely re-built the Power Supply. Two E.H.T. units had failed to work. (Much wasted time!). The 3rd attempt, with different circuit, was perfect (8Kv!). He also mentioned that he had spent the entire week (with the XYL away) on the unit but just failed to get a raster on the tube in time for the meeting. [Someone said "the XYL should go away more often"!]. He also described the picture sources that he hoped to show in a year’s time!

Next month’s meeting is a talk by young Steven on e-bay. (Oli says he is looking forward to this one).

I have the impression that not many of the Club members take RadComms which, for me, is helpful because that is my main source of copy. However, Kenn has kindly sent one item that lightens the tone of this edition.

The following are a few comments from the Enforcement Bureau of the F.C.C (USA equivalent of Ofcom). They have been written by a licenced amateur, K4ZDH.

To the contesters:

Be more courteous. You are responsible for the frequency you are operating on and realize that's true even when you operate split. All frequencies are shared. ( You do not have sole use ofany frequency)

To those who don't like contesters:

Lighten up! Contests are short lived.

Use the WARC bands.

Wash the car.

Cut the grass.

Leam from the contesters. Contesters are some of the best radio operators on planet Earth.

To the QRPers:

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your vitality, inspiration, enthusiasm, and for being builders again! I wish I could take your enthusiasm and spread it over all segments of amateur radio. When I watch you folks, I see the excitement and magic of my first contact.

Ed. Whilst I am not a QRP operator, I would ask operators to deliberately look for QRP contacts; give them encouragement.

Unfortunately, the R.S.G.B. in their latest BandPlan has failed to give the recommended operating frequency for QRP operation.

To those who don't like QRPers:

Lighten up! Anyone can use a linear amplifier as a crutch.

To those of you who don't like Dpeditions:

Lighten up! If a group of people wants to spend a lot of money to go to a rock or sandbar in the ocean, live in a tent, and swat flies and scorpions for a week and talk over ham radio 24 hours a day, so what? Let 'em do it! DXpeditions, too, are short lived, and such operation must be important to someone. Scarborough Reef drew over 50,000 contacts, didn't it?

Liquid Tape from SOTABEAMS

Liquid Tape is like paint-on self-amalgamating tape rubber compound. According to SOTABEAMS they have been using it for some months and have found it to be one of those products that really does what it promises on the tin. Liquid Tape penetrates the braid of coaxial cable connections and stops water ingress by capillary action. Full details are on the web at www.sotabeams.co.uk.

(Ed. Sounds good sticky stuff)

Even if no Club members ‘do’ much on 70MHz, they may other readers of this News who are not fully aware of just how many oither countries have access to this band:-

Italian amateur radio 70MHz experimental campaign

The Italian Ministry of Communications, in coordination with the Ministry of Defense, has authorised an amateur radio experimental campaign on the 70MHz band (4 meters) within the time period 11 July to 31 December. The technical parameters are 25W EIRF3 all modes, on the spot frequencies 70.1, 70.2 and 70.3MHz with 25kHz bandwidth. The operational area is the whole Italian territory except for a 30km strip from the Austrian, French and Swiss borders. Antenna types are omnidirectional and directional. The experimental campaign is open to all Italian radio amateurs and the results will be published when it has finished.

Sealed lead-acid batteries

OLD TECHNOLOGY.

Sealed Lead Acid Batteries (SLABs) or 'gel cells' are rather old fashioned in terms of battery technology and yet they remain a popular choice for portable radio operators. Here we explore why that is, together with some ideas for using them and getting the best results.

TYPES AND RATINGS.

Each type of SLAB has a stated capacity (eg 7Ampere hours or Ah) but beware: you can only achieve this capacity under specific conditions. The faster you discharge your battery, the less capacity it will have. A 7AH battery will give 0.35A for 20 hours but increase the current draw to 3.5A and you'll find it's flat in about an hour. There are two main problems with lead- acid batteries:

•Weight - they are heavy for the energy that they contain. A 7Ah battery weighs 2.65kg and has a specific energy of 32Wh/kg (20hr rate). This compares poorly with other battery technologies such as NiMH (>50Wh/kg) and lithium polymer (LiPO) (>100Wh/kg), thus you can pack the same energy into a much lighter battery by choosing a newer cell technology.

.• Discharge characteristics - lead acid batteries vary from about 12.8V for a fully charged cell down to around 10.2V for a discharged battery. LiPO and NiMH batteries have flatter discharge characteristics. So why do lettd-acid batteries remain popular?

•Availability-they are readily available and come at just the right voltage for most radio equipment (12V).

• Cost - they are modestly priced (_ 20 for a 7Ah lead-acid compared to _ 70 for a 5.4Ah 11V LiPO battery pack).

•Safety-sealed lead acid batteries are very safe when handled properly.

• Ease of use - this is perhaps the key factor and bears further examination.

EASY CHARGING.

Lead acid batteries can be float-charged from many of the standard "12V" PSUs used to power rigs. These PSUs are often set to around 13.6V which is just about perfect voltage for float- charging lead acid batteries. The only thing to note that the initial inrush current for a discharged 12V battery can be up to twice its capacity (14A for a 7Ah battery) for a few seconds so your PSU needs to be able to supply this current. 12V SLABs can also be charged directly from a cigarette lighter socket in a car. It is good practice to isolate the battery from its charger with a diode (a high current Schottky diode is a good choice as it has a forward voltage drop of only about 0.3V). I have never bothered with an isolating diode for float charging and have had no problems.

SLABs keep their charge quite well and will lose less than 20 even after 3 months at 20° C. With float charging they can be left connected to the charger more or less indefinitely but this will never quite fully charge the battery and will ultimately reduce its life somewhat due to sulphation of the battery plates. For a full (and faster) charge, a constant current charger with an open circuit voltage of about 14.5 volts is recommended. The charge current should not exceed a 1/4 of the battery capacity, eg 1.75A for a 7Ah battery. I normally charge my batteries at 800mA. With this charging method, you will need to disconnect the battery from the charger once the charge current drops to a few tens of milliamps. For rapid charging in my car I use a 12V switched-mode laptop power supply (readily available for about _ 20). I set this to 16v output and use a constant current source made with an LM317T a series diode and a few resistors. It's not pretty but it recharges my 4Ah battery quite well while I drive between activating different SOTA hills.

CONDITION MONITORING. It is useful to monitor your battery to see how much charge you have left. Steve Weber, KD1JV, shows a simple voltage monitor circuit on his website. CONNECTIONS. Sealed lead acid batteries often come with 4.7mm tabs for the connections. It is best to use proper connectors but if you solder a power lead on, make sure to heatsink the battery end of the tab otherwise you can melt the plastic surround. Insulate the connections well using heatshrink or several layers of tape - a short here may well start a fire. A fuse is an essential requirement given that the maximum discharge current for a 7Ah battery is around 50A! I use an inline fuse holder and tape a few spare fuses to the battery for use in emergencies. Some years ago I standardised my DC connectors to Anderson Power Poles and thus my SLABs have these connectors fitted. To stop the connections being accidentally pulled off, I always strain relieve the power cable using a cable tie (see Websearch).

LIFE. It is a good idea to write the date that you bought the battery on it using an indelible marker (cover the writing with transparent "Magic Tape" to protect it). This will help you to keep track of the life of your battery. One final tip is always to buy your batteries new, from a reputable supplier. Over the years I have bought several dud SLABs from less reputable suppliers. Ex-alarm batteries are seldom any good. I may have been unlucky but I always buy them new nowadays.

WEBSEARCH

Yuasa NP series datasheet

Radcom - Sept07-01 .notlong.com

SHETLAND ON 500kHZ. Looks like l00mW is enough to span the length of the British Isles!

Dx for the beginner or anyone else for that matter:-

One of the things for a newcomer to try is to listen at UK sunrise for North America on 80 meters. There will be lots of North American and Caribbean stations - and occasionally you'll hear some stations from South America, such as the Galapagos Islands at the same time. Listen for half an hour or so before sunrise and you'll hear the signals peak. Grey line propagation is really exciting and it's a great way to work some interesting DX on LF. If you've a suitable antenna, you can try the same thing on 160m - but the opening will be a lot shorter.

I came across this website whilst reading the October RadComms; looks interesting

Porthcurno Telegraph Museum

www.porthcurno.org.uk

I should be grateful if readers would let Oli know at oli.g3nfy@virgin.net the locations of radio (and other technological) museums in the U.K. so that he can compile and publish these. (He went looking for one in the Isle of Wight and found that it had moved and then closed). For locals, there is the one at Tropicaria.

Subject: How do you know your a ham????

You know you are a Ham when........

The only time you get up at 6am is for a radio rally.

You know you can run all your home appliances on your equipment back-up battery.

Someone in a Music shop asks you what bands you like and you answer two metres and seventy centimetres.

A bank clerk asks you to spell your name and you do so phonetically.

In a conversation, you wait for the Roger tone before speaking.

You hear a scraping sound when driving through multi-storey car parks.

A band opening is more important than a grand opening.

Sight-seeing on holiday amounts to looking at rooftops for antennas.

The radios in your car are worth more than your car.

When you walk out of the house you not only feel your pockets for your keys and your wallet, but also your hip for your handheld.

Your child's schoolteacher calls you on the phone to ask why your child identified countries on the world map as JA, ZL, VE, G, UA and XE.

If you refer to your house as "Ohm, sweet Ohm".

You're talking on the phone and end every sentence with "(callsign) this is (callsign), over".

Your prime criterion for a new car is that it have zero ignition noise.(Ed. And a gutter and somewhere to put at least one rig)

You and your partner hike to the top of a famous mountain, but rather than enjoy the magnificent sunset and giving them a kiss, you fire up the Hand Portable to see how many repeaters you can hit.

You realise that you've been studying code too long because you try and find out who did it in 'Inspector Morse' by listening to the background music.

You look at the Pennine Mountain Range and try to figure out how to get an antenna mounted on the highest peak.

You look at the Severn Bridge and develop a plan to get it to resonate on 160 metres

Thank you Kenn for forwarding that one; the bold items are those that your editor relates to!

I am wondering,is this Oli's car????

or do you know who is the owner?

 

 

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER AUGUST 2004

 

It is with great regret that the Club has to announce yet another Silent Key. Mike Wheeler 2E1IJP has achieved the greatest Dx possible. He was was a keen attendee at Club meetings when health permitted. He also helped with RAYNET on numerous occasions.

We can say ‘goodbye’ to Mike at the Taunton Crematorium, Friday 14th September, 1230hrs

 

Last month’s meeting was the all important Rally at Allerford (Minehead). Thanks to all who helped. One of our Club Members came all the way down from Weston Super Mud (or somewhere up that way) not only on the Saturday to assist, but also on the Friday evening to help set up. Another came along on the morning and then disappeared!.

Progress was slow on Oli’s stand, taking some _ 20 (all for the Club). At Wimborne, most of our ‘stuff’ would go before the rally opened to the public; items being bought up by other traders. Oli did spend a little bit of money, some thermocouple (& electrostatic) meters, two heating mats and a powered jig saw.

I have one or two further comments from Oli.:-

He nearly sold 2 items at the rally. One was a monumental battery charger, some 80 Amps or so - there was insufficient room in the LandRover to transport it to the rally. He was very pleased that it did not go, it was required a week later! (More about this in another News). The other item was a mains motor driven 50Hz Variac. It was on the stand for _ 4 & still did not go. He later realised that this very low speed, reversible motor was absolutely ideal for driving the vacuum capacitor which will tune a mag loop aerial.

The Rally / Car Boot was great fun, and as our reporter says, we had some helpers the night before ,the night  was spent setting out the tables in the hall,

14 tables were booked inside. then it was down to sorting out signs for people to find us.

at about 19:00 on Saturday night, JAB Electronics  arrived to setup.

Simon and Bob then set off to put the signs up,and that was when the fun started,The day before Bob's car ran out of petrol,so some petrol was used from his garden tractor to refuel the car,but this is a warning,do not use second hand petrol.the fuel filter became blocked and the car then developed kangaro petrol.

Durring the night,our second trader arrived,he arrived at 01:30 in the morning,then at 06:00 am Bob was then out in the field,getting ready for everybody to arrive,

several traders / carbooters arrived and everybody had a great day,several of our local Hams came along,and I think everybody that came had a great time.

After all bills paid,we ended up with 40 pounds profit,that was double last year,but that was our first time,

anyway,put August 3rd 2008 in your diary,thats the date of the next one.

 

Next month’s meeting is a progress report (?) by Oli on Slow Scan Television. It will include a small sic demonstration of LDTV.

Rewinding transformers and solenoids.

Have you ever had a device that worked on 24v and you needed it for a 12v supply?

Have you a mains transformer that required different secondary voltage?

It is not so much the number turns but the wire diameter that is the query. Oli has passed this information to me for the News. He apparently been hunting for it for years and finally found it. (Suprising what a clear-out can achieve!)

To halve the voltage:-

The device will take/supply twice the current.

The winding will have a quarter of the resistance.

It will require half the number of turns.

And here is the important bit:-

The wire will have twice the cross sectional area.

In practice, when you have the coil away from whatever iron core (if it is a mains transformer, probably E & I’s). Count the number of turns as you unwind it.

Now measure the wire diameter carefully. Various Club members will have a micrometer. Strictly, you should some allowance for the ‘enamel’ covering. There are various grades of enamelling and modern wires with self-fluxing coating tend to be thinner. However, for 10SWG I would suggest take off 6 thou; for 20SWG take off 3 thou and for 30SWG take off 2 thou. (i.e.Taking off an allowance for the two layers of enamel, one on each side of the wire!)

With the probable true copper diameter, look up the Cross Sectional Area of that gauge of wire. If you halving the voltage, you will need replacement wire of twice the Cross Sectional Area. Again, referring to wire tables, you can now determine the wire gauge needed.

As an example:-

Mains transformer which currently gives 24v and 12v is required:-

On stripping off the existing secondary winding, it was found to have 240 turns.

The wire diameter as measured was found to be 0.0146". Take off an allowance for the enamel giving 0.0144". From wire tables, the Sectional area is 0.000158 sq. ins. nearest SWG to this is 28.

Now refer to wire tables again. Double the sectional area is 0.000316 sq ins. This corresponds to a wire gauge of approx 25SWG.

A practical point:- The original coil will have been machine wound & it is unlikely that you will achieve such a neat job! i.e.your winding will take up a little more space so it is probably worth considering dropping a wire size. You will be putting 120 turns on for your new winding.

RAYNET

Bob & Oli (and several other members of the Taunton & West Somerset RAYNET) recently supported S.E. Dorset RAYNET with the Dorchester Ironman. This was a massive event with 1600 entrants and some 400 others who paid their non- returnable entrance money to be on standby. You may have seen the request in last month’s RadComms for radio operators to help. In the end, 65 operators assisted. To quote the S.E. RAYNET Controller’s (John Goodall GØSKR) comments "The proffesionalism with which everyone, regardless of age or length of service in RAYNET , undertook their duties during the Triathlon, was outstanding".. Amateurs came from Derbyshire - Leicestershire - London - Somerset - West Devon to name but a few attended. A slogan of RAYNET was Your Lifeline - Their Hobby. Still valid today; RAYNET provides professional standard communications without which many social events could not take place.

70MHz

Do not think that that 70MHz is only available to us Brits (& Gibraltar) Great news that the Italians now have the band until 31 December. ±12.5kHz of 70.1, 70.2 and 70.3MHz, all modes and polarisation and 25W EIRP: Details are on the website (Web search). www.space.it/70mhz/

On the 12 June G4DEZ worked CT1HZE on SSB and FM and CT1FFU and on the 30th Bryn contacted OZ1DJJ, followed by the first ever G to HA contact using JT6m which took just 12 minutes with HA1YA and OY/G40DA (IP61). G4ZFJ worked OY1CT (IP62) on 22 June for a new country and grid and Colin reports that Nige Coleman, G7CNF (1081), worked VE9AA cross-band to 6m on 25 June.

‘Copy’ for the News

At the Dorset Ironman RAYNET ‘do’, our newsletter editor was in conversation with another such ‘volunteer’ about items for publication. He said that such submissions were often late and was suprised to learn that I had to find everything! One of the problems is that I have no idea what you would like to see in the News (or to whether is even read!). My only source that is up to date is RadComms and that is a little unfortunate for those who support out National organisation and read the magazine themselves.

MORE PetrolElectric GENERATOR LORE.

A Technical Topics item "Petrol-Electric Generator Lore" (June 2006, pp72-73) provided a number of suggestions on achieving reliable and safe running of petrol-electric generators. As these devices remain the prime source of power for field-days and emergency operations, it seems worth while, despite some repetition, quoting selectively from "More Power to You" by H Ward Silver, NOAX (QST, June 2007).

"All generators are not created equal. Along with the power rating, consider waveform quality and regulation. 'Contractor grade' generators for powering tools have poor regulation and distorted waveforms, particularly near full rating. Keying a radio can cause large voltage swings, risking damage to a power supply or improper operation. If you can, use a generator intended to power electronic equipment. Poor regulation can be helped by loading a 2kW generator with a pair of 100W light bulbs at all times. "Test generators well before field use unless you want to learn field generator repair! A generator with old fuel in the tank and carburettor is likely to run poorly, if at all. Generators should be stored with the fuel line and carburettor dry and a stabilising agent added to the stored petrol. Replace black and dirty oil. Inspect the air filter and silencer for clogging by dust or debris. Some sites may require a spark suppressor, so be sure your generator meets the [site] rules. "Monitor fuel consumption, devising a fuelling schedule so the lights don't go out unexpectedly. Your 'Generator Czar' should provide additional oil of the proper viscosity, fuel in safety containers away from the exhaust, a fuelling funnel, mopping rags, and a flashlight for night-time maintenance. Review the instructions for each generator, such as those found on the web at mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/operation.htm.

"Take generator safety seriously. Never run a generator in an enclosed space - be sure there's plenty of ventilation. Keep flammable materials such as dry grass or cloth clear of the exhaust. Keep a fire extinguisher at each generator. Never fuel a running generator - insist that it be stopped first and try to have two-person crews do the job. If you operate near homes, consider the neighbours! If your generator is noisy, use plywood sheets to make a sound baffle. Try to direct or deflect noise up and away from people trying to sleep." NOAX also provides information on the AC wiring, battery operation and alternative power sources such as solar power, bicycle- and pedal-operated generation. Inter alia he suggests that "Of the different battery types, deep-cycle marine or RV batteries and gel-cells are the best choice for Field Days. ... Many radios do not operate properly at less than 12V. That means the batteries may need to be charged frequently or continuously, or you may have to use a more tolerant radio!" Personally, since 1944,1 have always viewed P-E generators with some misgivings. First, due to a stupid mistake, I managed, while at Nymegan with IS9 (M19) to write off completely my SCU9 Onan 150W P-E generator. Later, I was constantly frustrated by a repeatedly moist sparking plug in a replacement generator used close to the Rhine, often frantically pulling the starting rope repeatedly in an effort to meet transmission schedules. In one of my first post-war NFDs, the generator provided an output dropping to about 20HZ, burning out the receiver PSU transformer. It pays to follow the advice given above by NOAX and the additional hints given in the June, 2006 TT" Surprisingly, Onan 150W P-E generators were occasionally used, despite the noise of their two-stroke engines, by clandestine stations in Occupied Territory, including Norway. Dave Williams, G3CCO, has told me that he advised agents going into Malayan jungles always to dig pits for their generators in order to deaden the noise.

3B7C needs you or so a heading in RadComms reads.

3B7C is the call sign for (another) Dxpedition.

It is operating from 7 - 24th September on all bands; c.w and SSB

They aim to work every station that calls in. They recommend trying towards the end of the scheduled period, once the rush is over!. (Good opportunity for Bob; he has a good reputation for breaking log jambs)

Where is 3B7C? Ile de Sud, next to Coco Island at the southern end of the Brandon Group. None the wiser? Well, nor was I!! It is about 400 miles west of Panama, well out into the Pacific.

PROPAGATION TO 3B7C

The following predictions are based on a 100W station and simple antennas - if you have a beam and/or linear you will do better.

• 160, 80 and 40m. There will be a tough darkness path from about 1800 - 0200UTC.

•30m should open around 1600UTC, giving a fair path until the band starts to deteriorate after midnight.

•20m should offer good propagation from mid-afternoon, peaking at about 1800UTC and falling off later in the evening.

•17m is a good bet from late morn ing until reliability deteriorates in the evening.

• 15m is also worth checking throughout daylight hours, especially 1530- 1730UTC.

•12 and 10m are likely to be disappointing, although it is always worth looking, especially on 12m during daylight.

Most of the time, 3B7C will be working ‘split’; Tx’g on a different to Rx. However, the operator will announce this. Later on, after the rush, it is likely that Tx & Rx will be on the same frequencies.

See web site:- www.3b7c.com

Best of luck - try and work them on more than one band

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER JULY 2004

 

Last month’s meeting was poorly attended & was at Kenn’s QTH. 2 Club members arrived to carry out some ‘field day’ operation. Bob managed his usual trick of breaking into a pile-up whilst Oli had an excellent contact with the States. Ideas for a multi-band ‘field day’ type of aerial were discussed.

Next month’s meeting is the all important Rally at Allerford (Minehead). I trust you all have made arrangements with Bob concerning what help you can give.

This month’s News contains a complete Heat Sink design procedure. Heat sinks are expensive things to buy and the following uses flat sheet material. This follows an article on Lightning.

LIGHTNING

It pays to be prudent when the megavolts start flying around...

SUMMER FUN. For most people, summer is the prime time for portable operating. The thought of enjoying the early evening sun with a fine view and some interesting tropo or sporadic E DX on 2m is just about perfection. But this is a time of year with special hazards for the portable operator. Setting aside midges and wasps, lightning is perhaps the most prevalent risk. In Cheshire, for example, there is six times more likelihood of lightning occurring in the summer than in the winter [1]. My interest in lightning stems from nearly being struck twice in one year; an occurrence that forced a rethink on avoiding lightning. Lightning presents two distinct risks for portable radio operations:

• Personal risk due to direct or close strike

• Risk to radio equipment from the electromagnetic pulse caused by lightning

Between 30 and 60 people are struck by lightning in the UK each year. On average, three of these will die. The best way to avoid this risk is not to go portable when there is lightning in the area. In the UK, good lightning predictions are available from the Met Office [2] and real-time data is available at the Blitzortung website [3].

HOW CAN YOU TELL IF YOU ARE AT RISK? You can judge the distance of a storm from you by counting the time between the lightning flash and the sound of the thunder. If the gap is less than 30 seconds you should seek shelter. You should then remain there for 30 minutes after the last clap of thunder (sometimes called the 30/30 rule). If you are caught out, the Tornado and Storm Research Organisation [4] recommends the following:

Avoid wide, open spaces or exposed hilltops and don't shelter beneath tall or isolated trees. Seek shelter inside a large building or a motor vehicle. Check and take heed of weather forecasts of thunderstorms when planning a day walking in the hills, sailing and playing golf. If you are swimming, windsurfing or sailing, get to the shore as quickly as possible. Move away from wide, open beaches and seek shelter inside a large building or motor vehicle.

If caught out in the open during a thunderstorm, discontinue carrying umbrellas, fishing rods, golf clubs and other large metal objects. Keep away from metal objects such as motorcycles, golf carts, bicycles, wire fences and rails.

If your hair stands on end or nearby objects begin to buzz, move quickly away as lightning may be about to strike. These effects happen because the positive electrical charges forming at the ground are streaming upwards to try to make contact with the advancing downward negatively-charged 'leader'. Lightning does not always follow, as not all of the upward discharges make contact with the leader, but it is best to move away as a precaution. Seek shelter in a large building or motor vehicle. If caught out in the open with no shelter nearby, move to a place of lower elevation such as a hollow or dry ditch. Crouch down (to lower your height) with both feet close together. Do not place your feet wide apart or lie flat on the ground as this will increase the difference in voltage across your body, increasing the electrical charge you may receive from radial ground currents, if lightning strikes the ground nearby. Tuck your head in and place your hands on your knees. If inside a motor vehicle stay there during the thunderstorm. It will protect you as long as you do not touch the metal of the car body [or anything connected to it such as radio equipment!]. A lightning strike will normally be safely conducted over the metal bodywork of the vehicle before earthing to the ground over the wet tyres (that are sometimes damaged slightly). When indoors, keep away from windows, avoid touching metal pipes or radiators. If lightning strikes a television aerial, the cable may conduct the current into the building where it can jump to other wiring or metal piping circuits. Do not use a telephone except in an emergency. Finally, give first-aid (and contact paramedics promptly) to anyone struck by lightning to help them recover. You will not receive an electrical shock as they carry no electrical charge. Act promptly.

LIGHTNING DETECTOR. Clearly, "hill topping" represents a high risk even without an aerial system. With that in mind I decided to build a lightning detector to carry with me during the summer, on hilltop trips. The circuit I have used was developed by Charles Wenzel and full details are on the Web [5]. It functions well and is relatively immune to RF on the amateur bands - at least at low power levels. The circuit lends itself to more sophisticated applications. In my case I have interfaced it to a PIC to allow a more comprehensive user interface to be developed. There is no easy way of protecting portable radio equipment from a direct strike. Gas discharge tubes, the most common form of lightning protection for antennas, are unlikely to work well without a good ground system. For anyone wishing to investigate this lightning protection further, the ARRL has an excellent series of articles available at their website [6] although it relates primarily to fixed stations. As with the personal risk above, the best course of action is not to be out when storms are likely and at the first sign of thunder, to beat a hasty retreat.

WEBSEARCH

[ll www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/lightning.html

[2] www.metoffice.gov.uk

[3] www.lightningradcom.notlong.com

[41www.torro.org.uk/TORRO/research/lightning.php

[5] www.techlib.com/electronics/lightning.html

[6] www.arrl.org/tis/info/lightning.htmI RadCom Aug 2007. P65

Heat Sinks

1 There are two approaches to the design of heat sinks. First, it may be desired to produce a heat sink which will be adequate for all normal applications, but it may not be imperative that the size is the smallest possible. This approach relieves the designer of considering a number of factors some of which may possibly be unknown. In the second instance, space may be at a premium, and it is desirable to use the smallest possible heat sink capable of dissipating the heat generated by the semiconductor device without exceeding the temperature rating set by the manufacturer. The heat sink should have a thermal resistance:

θr £ (Tcase - Ta) ¸ Ptot ° C/watt (1)

where

θr = thermal resistance in ° C/watt

Ta = the maximum anticipated cooling air temperature in ° C

Tcase = the rated case, stud or mounting-base temperature in ° C for the conditions under which the device is to be operated

Ptot = the power in watts dissipated by the device when used in the circuit. In the absolute maximum rating system all anticipated variations in device characteristics, circuit component values and supply voltages must be taken into account when assessing Ptot.

1.1 Heat Sink Design

1.1.1 Basic Design/or Natural Air Cooling

The curves in Figure 1 enable the size of the heat sink to be determined. If the smallest dimensions are not required, it will be safe to use curve U. If the smallest possible fin is required, the size can be reduced towards curve L but a heat run is essential to check the design.

The thermal resistance of a flat heat sink (fin) supported in free air depends upon its surface area, temperature, thickness, shape and orientation, the material of which it is constructed, the nature of its surface and the temperature of the cooling air. The above method applies to vertically mounted fins of 1/16 in. thick bright aluminium in which the ratio of the lengths of the major and minor axes do not exceed 2:1. The fin is assumed to have less than 100 sq. in. exposed to cooling air and its hottest point to be at a temperature at least 25° C above that of the surroundings. In the above method, heat dissipation due to radiation can be neglected. Thus, a safe design can be achieved suitable for many applications. However, when it is known that appreciable radiation can occur (e.g. with a single fin with matt black surfaces) and it is desirable to keep the size of the heat sink to a minimum, reference should be made to 1.1.3.

It is desirable to verify the design by means of a heat run, carried out under the most adverse operating conditions expected.

1.1.2 Basic Design for Forced Air Cooling

When cooling air is blown over the surface of a fin the area required for a given thermal resistance may be approximately determined from the equation

A = 1500 ¸ (θr3/2 . V3/4) ins2

where

A = the total surface area of heat sink exposed to cooling air

θr = thermal resistance as defined in equation above

V = the mean air velocity in ft/sec. Since the effectiveness of forced air cooling depends on the detailed arrangement used, a heat run is always necessary to verify the design.

1.1.3 Factors Modifying Heat Sink Designs

(a) Radiation

When a naturally cooled fin is free to radiate heat from its cooling surface, for example when only one fin is used and it is not near any other radiating surface, the heat radiated from it forms a considerable amount of the total heat transferred. If the surface is matt black, a reduction in area of about 30% may be made on the figure obtained from the curves.

(b) Fin Temperature

The temperature of the fin affects the heat dissipation by both radiation and convection. If it operates at a temperature substantially above that of its surroundings, the area may be reduced below the value derived in accordance with 1.1.1 (for example, by 30% if the differential is 100° C). On the other hand, if the differential is less than 20° C, heat transfer due to convection rapidly diminishes, requiring a larger surface area. In forced air cooling systems, where the air velocity is greater than 10 ft/sec, radiation effects can be ignored.

(c) Material and Thickness

If a large heat sink is constructed of thin material with a high thermal resistivity, its effeciency is low. In order that the effeciency of the heat sink shall not be seriously impaired, the material and thickness used should satisfy the expression

ρ/d < θr ° C/watt (3)

where

ρ = thermal resistivity (see Table I)

d = thickness

θr = thermal resistance as defined in equation (1)

If this expression is not satisfied, a larger surface area will be required than that determined from 1.1.1 and 1.1.2. On the other hand, there is little point in making

ρ/d < θr/2

since the heat sink efficiency is not substantially improved and metal is wasted.

Thermal resistivities likely to be encountered are shown in the table below:

TABLE I

Thermal Resistivities

Material

in.

° C/watt

cm

° C/watt

Material

.in.

° C/watt

Cm

° C/watt

Silver

0-095

0-24

Stainless

1-65

4-19

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steel

 

 

 

 

Copper

0-1

0-26

Porcelain

40

100

 

 

 

 

 

 

(typical)

 

 

 

 

Aluminium

0-18

0-48

Mica

50-80

125-200

Tin

0-63

1-60

Water

80

200

Solder

0-79

2-03

P.T.F.E.

160

400

(62 tin/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

38 lead)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mild Steel

0-83

2-11

Silicone

150

380

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grease

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(typical)

 

 

 

 

Solder

0-87

2-21

Trans-

300

760

(50 tin/

 

 

 

 

former

 

 

 

 

50 lead)

 

 

 

 

Oil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(typical)

 

 

 

 

Lead

1-14

2-90

Air at

1 500

3800

 

 

 

 

 

 

N.T.P.

 

 

 

 

The units used are ° C/watt for a cubic specimen having an edge of 1 in. or 1 cm long.

(d) Shape and Orientation

If a high efficiency fin is to be realized, it should be mounted vertically and should be roughly square or circular, with the semi-conductor device mounted in the centre. However, when a fin must be rectangular, its efficiency is impaired least if it is mounted vertically with its major axis in a horizontal plane, since maximum convection will then occur. If a fin is mounted in a horizontal plane, heat transfer from the lower face by convection will be reduced by a least 60% compared with vertical mounting, the upper face being unaffected. Consequently an increase in surface area of 20% or more may be necessary. When forced air cooling is used and the flow is parallel to the plane of the fin, shape and orientation are less important.

(e) Stacked Fins

When two or more fins are stacked side by side and naturally air cooled, the thermal resistance of each increases. In practice, if they are close together, a fin positioned between two others may dissipate virtually no heat by radiation. Convection will, however, be un-impaired if the distance between fins is larger than a certain critical value.

When designing stacked fins, the area of each fin should be taken directly from the curves in Fig. 1. The effect of radiation should be disregarded and the minimum fin spacing should be determined from curve P in Fig. 1.

Fins may be stacked side by side to great advantage when forced air cooling is used since the remarks above are not relevant.

1.2 Securing Semiconductor Devices to Heat Sinks

It is important that a good thermal contact is established between the base of the semiconductor device and the heat sink. This can usually be achieved by ensuring that the heat sink area is flat, smooth and burr-free, and by bolting the semiconductor device firmly to the heat sink. Overtightening of the fixing screws should be avoided, or the mounting-base of the device may be distorted reducing the effective contact area.

The use of a new soft lead washer of the same plan as the device mounting-base between the device and the heat sink is sometimes recommended. Such a washer may be about 0-005 in. thick (0-127 mm) and should never be used more than once, since on compression, it will work-harden and will not subsequently adopt the contours of the device and heat sink accurately enough.

Some manufacturers suggest that the device mounting-base be smeared with high thermal conductivity silicone grease before mounting, in order to minimize any air gaps due to surface irregularities. (Ed Definately advised)

Should it be necessary to provide electrical isolation between the device and its heat sink, a thin insulating spacer may be positioned in the same way as the lead washer mentioned above. Care should be taken to ensure that the spacer is not damaged during mounting, as a breakdown of insulation may damage the device or its associated components when the equipment is switched on. It may be desirable to check the insulation after assembly. The thermal resistance of such a spacer can be calculated from the equation

θs = (ρds) ¸ As

where

θs = thermal resistance of spacer

ρ = thermal resistivity of spacer (see Table 1)

ds = thickness of spacer

As = surf ace area of one side of spacer

This thermal resistance will generally be a few tenths of a ° C/watt and should be subtracted from the value of θr used on the curves of Fig. 1.

(Ref The use of semiconductor devices 2nd edit. Nov -61 pubThe Electronic Valve & Semiconductor Manufactuers Association. -definately out of copyright!!)

 

 

 

 

CLUB CALL AFFILIATED

GXØOWX WEST SOMERSET AMATEUR RADIO CLUB R.S.G.B.

NEWSLETTER JUNE 2004

 

Last month’s meeting was the annual Bar-B-Q at the most kind invitation of Kenn. The weather was good and the evening was enjoyed by all those who bothered to go.

 

This is very important, PLEASE

YET Another reminder re the August meeting. If this is to be a success, we do require support of Club members.

It is on Sunday, 5th August

as well as JAB Electronics,we now have a booking from "Camsecure"

Next month’s meeting is another gathering at Kenn’s. This time it is in his field for a Club operating evening.

Please note that is 1900hrs arrive time for 1930hrs start. There are no problems about arriving earlier to set up if you wish. Mains power is available; RCD protected. Oli might bring his new rig (and the 747 if back in time from Castle Electronics). He might try 2 x Ù Ae’s at right angles.

Your scribe has the usual problem of finding information to put in this newsletter. He had a request for construction data for a current limited, variable voltage bench power supply which was duly published. This has been just about all so far. Much of the input for the News comes from RadComms which is unfortunate for those who already receive it. He will see what else can be found of interest.

STAND BY TO SAVE ELECTRICITY. One evening, not long after the March edition of RadCom was delivered, I was watching 'Dragons' Den' on television. In it two inventors were demonstrating to the Dragons their power-saving idea for televisions - a 13A socket with a built-in remote control receiver that can learn from your TV's remote and switch the TV off completely when you press the 'standby' button. The Dragons asked them if it could be incorporated into a TV, and when they said 'yes' all five Dragons immediately wanted a slice of the action. The system demonstrated on Dragons Den differed from the 'Bye Bye Standby' (and other similar equipment) because it uses the TV's own remote, rather than one of its own. Clearly it is an idea whose time has come. Shame I didn't patent it first though, because it is exactly what I described in the March 'Whatever Next'! But there are things which it is inappropriate to switch off altogether, especially decoders for satellite and terrestrial television. These rely on being permanently powered on, because they continuously update their software and electronic program guides.

New Channels

The old